Sébastien Lazure, one of MEC’s climbing Envoys, climbed a V13 on his latest outing at Hueco Tanks. I spoke with him about this impressive accomplishment.
Is this the first time you’ve attacked this monster?
I managed to climb Slashface (V13) at Hueco Tanks in just a few tries this year. It’s great to see how you progress over the years! I tried several times in 2010 with no luck. I managed to climb the crux (the hardest part) once, but was unable to finish. It’s easy to be relentless when you haven’t made it yet, but when I left without succeeding in 2010 I came back this year better prepared. It all looked a lot easier.
How much time can you spend on the same boulder?
I remember a boulder in South Africa that really gave me grief. I tried over a hundred times in one week and finally made it by changing my shoes. It really gets frustrating sometimes. Especially after a few days when you’re just about there, but you don’t quite make it because of a few minor details. Sometimes the battle becomes more mental than physical. But it’s one the reasons I love climbing – accomplishing something that seems impossible at first.
What pushes you to keep going when it’s not working out physically or mentally?
I don’t like to fail. When I start something, I finish it. You just need determination. When it gets difficult mentally, I take breaks and clear my mind and tackle a different problem. That way, I can come back to the first one with a more positive attitude.
What’s next for you?
I participated in the nationals at the beginning of April, but my little finger was injured so I wasn’t in the best of shape. I still placed 10th in the qualifications, two spots away from making the finals. I was disappointed, but these things happen and there’s nothing you can do about it. Now I’m letting my finger heal and I’m training for the IFSC Bouldering World Cup on June 1 in Hamilton, Ontario. There’s also the Quebec route championship (Quebec Cup) at the Allez Up climbing centre in Montreal on May 11 and 12.
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