Envoy and sport climber Amy Sutley talks about making the transition from the comfort of an indoor climbing gym to the more raw experience of climbing outside.
Like most competitive climbers these days, my climbing career started in the safety and comfort of an indoor gym, where excess chalk is removed with vacuum cleaners and the walls are lit with fluorescent lights. It wasn’t until seven years after I started climbing that I first shuffled my way up an outdoor route. The experience was exhilarating but terrifying, and I wasn’t sure if outdoor climbing was for me. But after a few more trips outside, I was absolutely hooked. Now that the world of sport climbing has opened up to me, making the transition is something I’ll never regret.
Accepting increased responsibility
Outdoors, there are no gym staff to make sure you’re lead-belay certified, or to check that you’ve tied your knot properly. Accepting the responsibility to monitor your own safety is an important step that complements the resolve to learn new skills. As a kid, I was lucky enough to have a coach who was enthusiastic about getting us outdoors. At the beginning of each outdoor season he’d review essential skills, like learning to remove gear from the rock after each climb (called cleaning). By practicing techniques indoors first, my transition outside was relatively smooth. Even so, the first time I cleaned an outdoor route was intimidating. Sitting at the top of the route all alone, it was a little alarming to know that no one on the ground would be able to catch my mistakes, or guide me through the steps. That being said, this new independence is part of what makes the progression outdoors so exciting, and it’s important to embrace the experience whole-heartedly.
Adopting a beginner’s mindset
In the beginning, outdoor climbing will beat up your ego and make you reconsider everything you thought you knew about climbing. Ultimately, you’ll emerge a stronger, wiser and more technically sound climber. When I first began weekend trips to the crag, it was difficult to look at a blank piece of rock and understand how getting up it was even possible. At my home gym, each hold was marked with bright colors, and you could easily climb the route in your head 50 times before you even stepped on the wall. With outdoor routes, holds are not often easy to spot from the ground, and instead of having only one “correct” sequence, outdoor routes encompass thousands of variations. They allow flexibility, as you can adapt the route to fit your height, strength and technical abilities. Because of this, however, you’ll need to learn to be creative with your climbing and know how to improvise on the spot.
Slow down the climb
The smooth jugs and rounded footholds you’re used to warming up on will be replaced with hidden pockets, small edges and miniscule feet (which do wonders for footwork once you learn how to use them). Even the speed of your climbing will have to change, as searching for holds requires effort and careful consideration, especially as a beginner. Although this might seem difficult and time consuming at first, the uniqueness of every route will force you to appreciate each movement and climb with finesse.
Keep an open mind
Making the change from the gym to the crag can be intimidating, but it’s also a thrilling journey into a whole new world. If you let it, outdoor climbing can change your life, as it did with mine. Sport climbing has taken me all over the world to amazing destinations; it’s led me to spend more time in nature, to meet new people, and to experience things that I never could have had I stayed in the gym. So go forth with confidence, relax, and remember to keep an open mind as you venture into the amazing world of outdoor climbing.